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Kadim Şehir Bağdat – Dünyanın Eski Başkenti 3

Volume 3 - İslam Kenti Bağdat
 
Dicle nehrinin iki kenarında kurulmuş, Saddam'a ait bol miktarda sarayı, Osmanlı eseri medrese, cami, bedesten mimari örnekleri ile, tamamen Arap mimarisinin ürünü özgün diğer yapıları ile yapı kültürüne ilgi duyan herkesin doyumla ayrılacağı bir kent Bağdat. 
Mardin'e Urfa'ya yolu düşüp de bu şehirlere ilgi duyanların Bağdat'ı gördüklerinde aşık olmaları kaçınılmaz. Babil'den bu yana bu coğrafya bugünün aksine buram buram kültür, bilim ve mimari şaheserlerle bezenmiş. 
Kim geldiyse birşeyle almış belki de, ama kente hep birşeyler bırakmışlar. Osmanlıdan günümüze ulaşan askeri okullarda, bedestenlerde, tarihi Babil şehrinin sokaklarında anlıyorsunuz bunu. (Babil başka bir yazının konusu olmaya değer olduğu için değinmiyorum burada)
Şehri gezdikçe Saddam o kadar da kötü değil miydi acaba diyorsunuz içinizden!.. Dicle nehrinin kenarına kendisi için konduruverdiği sarayın ötesinde yaptırdığı devasa parklar ve her ne kadar içinde hayvan kalmamış olsa da Ankarada yer alan hayvanat bahçesinden kesinlikle aşağı kalır yanı olmayan hayvanat bahçesi, bunu düşünmenize zorluyor sizi. 
 
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Gece Dicle nehrinin kenarında yürüyüş yapmanın boğazda yürüyüş yapmakdan bir farkı yok bir Bağdat'lı için. Savaş öncesi geceleri bu parkların dolup taştığını söylüyorlar. İnsanlar ailelerini alıp parklarda vakit geçirirlermiş. Miş diyorum zira biz çevremizdeki korumalardan başka kimseleri göremedik. 
 
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Yine de yukarıya koyduğum resimler gerçekten ama gerçekten güzel olduğunu düşündürecektir eminim size de Dicle kenarının. (İstanbul Boğazının çevresini bir düşünüverin bir de) Hayvanat bahçesi de yine bu açık alanlardan birisi. Gerçekten büyük ve yeşil. Hayvanlar ne yazık ki kalmamış, birkaç istisna dışında. Gündüzleri pek az insan gelir olmuş. Eminim aradan geçen 3 yıldan sonra orda da hayat normalleşmeye başlamıştır artık.
 
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Bir de mimari doku var. Yukarıda da bahsettiğim gibi, Osmanlı Devletinin son döneminde yapılmış ve uzunca bir süre Osmanlı Devleti için subay yetiştirmiş bir okulu geziyorum. Okul hala ayakta ve şans eseri savaştan hiç etkilenmemiş. Yalnız özelleştirmeye konu edilmeye hazırlandığını anlattılar. Otel, restoran vs. yapılması düşünülüyormuş. Yap işlet devret benzeri acayipliklerle yeni yeni tanışıyorlar. O zaman halen orda bulunan Amerikalı yöneticiler organize ediyordu bu işleri. 
 
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Bir de Arap Mimarisi ile inşaa edilmiş yapılar var. özellikle camilerde kubbe ve minare yapısı kendini belli ediyor. Anadoluda görmeye alışık olduğumuz tarzdan biraz daha farklı. Ama gerçekten detaylar muhteşem, hem minareler de hem de çok yakından incelememe izin vermeseler de kubbelerde. 
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Yukarıdaki resimde rambo 3 den fırlamış gibi poz kesen sevgili korumam büyük abi Amerikanın kendilerine tedarik ettiği kamuflaj, ve eşsiz tüfeğiyle bana bakarken içinde bulunduğumuz yapı ise bir medrese. Boş tutuluyor. Bağdat Üniversitesinden bir hoca burayı satacaklar gibi birşeyler söyledi. İçini gezebildiğim kadarıyla neredeyse restorasyon yapılmadan kullanılacak kadar ayakta bu yapı. Onlarca odası, gerçekten büyük bir iç avlusu var. Şimdilik kullanılmıyor dediğim gibi. 
Gezimin bir diğer önemli başlığı ise tabiki müze seyahati. Bağdat'a kadar gitmişken eskiden dillere destan olmuş Irak Müzesini gezmeden olmazdı. Şehrin çok da merkezinde olmayan Irak müzesini gezmek için yola çıkıyoruz kamuflajlı saz ekibimizle, daha doğrusu müzeden geriye kalanları geziyoruz.
 
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Irak müzesi gerçekten çok büyük bir yapı, bu kapalı alana sahip Türkiye sınırları içerisinde bir müze var mı bilemiyorum. Tabi Topkapı Sarayını saymamalıyız bu noktada. Müze amaçlı yapılmış bu kompleks. Savaş sırasında ve sonrasında kaosun hakim olduğu anlarda yağmalanmış bu müze, envanterinden onlarca belki de yüzlerde eser kaybolmuş. Avrupa ve Amerika'ya gitmiş birçok eser, şimdilik nerelerde oldukları pek de bilinmiyor. Arap simsarlar, Amerikalılar, ve misyon edinip gelmiş Avrupa menşeili sanatseverler uçurmuş diyorlar. 
Müzeyi gezerken çok da müze meraklısı biri olmamama rağmen üzülüyorum. Cidden içi acıyor insanın müzede gezerken arada sağda solda dikkatinizi çeken büyük boşlukları görünce. El yazması onlarca eser de kaybolanlar arasında imiş. Üzüntü verici. Şehirle birlikte müze de yağmalanmış.
 
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Bazı eserler hala ortalıkta duruyor, bekleyen 2-3 bekçi dışında ilgilenen de yok. Bana refakat eden güruhda yer alan vatandaşlar da ilk kez geliyorlarmış müzeye. Benimle birlikte onlarda bakıyorlar eserlere. İlginç bir deneyim. Zaten müzeyi bizden başka gezen kimse de yok, bizim için açılmış gibi. 
Müzenin bazı bölümlerine girmeme izin verilmiyor. Zira o kısımlar artık boşmuş. Aslında müzenin eski envanteri İslam eserleri kadar islamiyet öncesi uygarlıkların eserleri ile dolu imiş. Gördüğüm kadarıyla yağmacıların daha çok ilgilendikleri de bu eserler olmuş. Anadolu da yer yer karşılaştığımız gibi bazı kısımları koparılarak çalınmamış yalnız eserlerin, bütünüyle götürülmüşler. Bu da ilginç geldi.
Bunun dışında tarih vs. başlığı altında Bağdat kentine 2-3 saat uzaklıkdaki tarihi Babil kentini (kentini diyorum çünkü kalıntı değil kentin kendisi orda duruyor) ve Babile bakan Saddamın en güzel saraylarından birini geziyorum. (Sarayın müştemilat kısmı sadece  bir kaç dönüm üzerine kurulu) Onu daha sonra paylaşacağım. 
Yabancı ve Gayrimüslimin girşine izin verilmeyen bir başka kadim şehir; Kerbela'dan sonra...//

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